The Road Less Traveled

Photos

1. Zacatecas 2.Marty coming into Mazatlan 3.and 4 In the mountains east of El Salto 5.Fritz on the Devil’s Spine 6. Other Ferry at La Paz. 7 Sunrise on the Sea of Cortez

It is Thanksgiving Day and Marty and I are in Zacatecas. Zacatecas? Yeah- Zacatecas. It is somewhat difficult to explain, but we ended up here on a whim, and it turned out to be a good decision.

Our week started last Sunday when we boarded the Chihuahua Star in La Paz, the capital of Baja California Sur. It is a giant ferry and dwarfed the one we had taken the previous Monday. The big decision of the day was whether we spent 760 pesos for a cabin, or tried to sleep in the general section. The cost of a room translated to about $60. What a great decision. I would recommend the ferry to any traveler. It was a 16 hr trip to Mazatlan and we were very comfortable.

When we arrived in Mazatlan we had a tentative plan to ride to Durango. Why? Because we have some time and it was an interesting destination. As we were reading the Lonely Planet tour book we noted a sentence in the very end of the explanation about Durango. What it said was that about100 km west of Durango there was a portion of highway 40 called “ Devils Spine”. We figured that we would pull into Durango about 4 and find a room. So when we arrived at the sign that said “Durango Libre” or “Durango Corte” we took the libre. Mexico has free roads and toll roads. The corte was the short route. We took the free route. As we rode into the Sierra Madre Mountains I commented to Marty about how big they looked from our sea level vantage point.

The Devils Spine started about 10 km up the road. For the next 6 hrs we drove on the continual curves. During the first hour I thought this would be a great place to bring a group. By the 4th hour I decided that was a bad idea as the tension of negotiating terrifying curves mounted. Did I tell you about the animals and semis on the road as well? By the 6th hour I was just happy that the road started to flatten out. I would never bring a group on the road. The scenery was spectacular as we rode along the shear cliffs and the 4000 ft straight drop. We would have taken pictures except there was no shoulder, just the shear drop, and turn outs were dangerously rock strewn as well.

We made only 100 km (65 miles that day) we spent the night in El Salto, 100 km from Durango. The countryside could have passed for the Black Hills of South Dakota. El Salto was high and cold. So we had come from the tropics to 7200 ft and a freezing night in one day..

On Tuesday we pulled into Durango about noon. It is a real city of 500,000 people, but not much to do. So we rested and decided to come to Zacatecas. Zacatecas is the most un-Mexican place we have visited. It is a cross between Salzburg Austria and Andalusia in Spain. There are so many parks and plazas with high end shops. I found our hotel by way of a reference from another adventure motorcyclist on a web site. So as I type this I am sitting next to the motorcycles parked in the hotel lobby. The hotel owner has his bike parked here as well. So they are not out of place at all. Great Hotel- Hotel Ruiz, Ave Juarez 222, Centro Zacatecas. 200 pesos per night per person about $35 for 2 persons.

Marty and I have resolved to lighten our load. The grind of putting all our camping gear on the bikes each morning and unloading each afternoon is getting to us. We have not used the gear once. In fact, I am now trying to figure out what clothing I can also do without. So when we get to Guadalajara next week we plan to find the UPS store and send home about 20 lbs of gear.

This Week In Pictures

left- sunrise Santa Rosarita Baja California

right - packed ferry

right- Vehicle Check In - Nogales

left - Marty relaxing while waitng for the ferry

Kamikaze Butterflies of Baja

Well me have made it to southern baja. The trip across the border and into mexico was pretty good. No real problems. The roads are actually quite nice but we have had to take some unexpected exits down rutted dirt roads. Not so bad except the bikes are fully loaded and that does not help much in the dirt. Sometimes though you just have to go down a dirtroad for the experience. The first night in Mexico dad and I were both a little freaked, just coming across the border and getting into the spanish. Tuesday we drove to Guaymas to catch the ferry to Baja. We thought we were going to be the only bikers on the ferry until about ten other BWM 1200 (the bigger more manly BMWs) riders rode up. Some of these guys had ridden all the way to Argentina and asked me a bunch of quiestions about my bike. Of which I knew nothing about. It kind of freaked me out. I looked at dad and I, two smaller guys with really no experience, and compared us to these Dudes and though we are totally screwed. But since then I ve gotten over it and realize we are just fine. If we are really going to make it to Argentina Dad and I are going to just check are egos at the border and let it be.

But the ferry ride across the Sea of Cortez was great. Totally cramped, totally hot, totally loud with little kids, no beds, only hard plastic chairs to sleep in. The TV was blasting some crap mexican game show until 3 AM. This boat was really small but they packed it full. We arrived in Santa Rosario at 7 am and hit the road. Thats when the Kamikazi Butterflies started bombing us. My helmet is a grave yard of wings and guts. But Baja is quite incredible and beatiful. The winding roads through the mountains give way to utter straight roads in the desert. If I was a surfer I would surely live here. Yesterday we pulled into Todos Santos outside of Cabo San Lucus. Unloaded the bikes and hit the dirt and sand. I finally dumped the bike, thank god. It was good to get my first dunp out the way. Now I do not give a shit. I think we both got our confidence on the dirt, which will be need. Manana I think we will head to Cabo. Dad really wants to do some Tequila shots and drink some Bud Light at Senor Frogs.

Estamos En Mexico

I am relaxing at the Hotel el Toro in Magdelena de Kino, Sonora Mexico as I write this. This is our first night outside the USA and the first of a hundred that will take us to Tierra del Fuego. Marty and I came in to Mexico at the Nogales downtown crossing. Where we immediately met our first traffic jam due to a local parade. Immigration and vehicle documentation actually took place about 20 miles inside Mexico. It was time consuming, but all our papers were in order, so we got 2 bikes fully documented and visa issued by 1:30. We headed down the road and stopped about an hour later for our first Taqueria.

We are heading south to Baja via a ferry at Guaymas down the Mexican version of the interstate, except it has speed bumps, side traffic, and animals on the highway; not much different than Iowa now that I think about it. About 3 pm we started looking for a hotel. Marty stopped at a Pemex station for direction and was told there were a lot of good hotels near the church he could see in the distance. As we approached Magdelena and the place where we thought we could get off the highway it started to turn into a toll road. So Marty said “we are turning here” Well “here” was a dirt trail someone had made to the divided highway. Just like that we were off road and headed down hill on a dirt trail that was the equivalent of skiing moguls. When we got to the bottom Marty turned right, and I followed. I thought he actually got directions for this. Turned out he was using his “developing country skills" to feel his way to the commercial zone. It worked. After about a mile of dirt we found some paving, followed it to a highway. And lo and behold this Hotel magically appeared!

So we pulled in, got a room, took a shower and found another Taqueria. Now we are having real fun. It is difficult to describe how the sound and feel of Mexico invigorates one. This is not a frightening experience at all.

That’s enough for today. We have a long way to go to the ferry.

Havoc House, Tucson, AZ

So dad and I have been hold up in Tucson since Thursday waiting for our Mexican bike insurance kick in. We've been staying in some dumpy Motel 6 in the crap part of town. I feel like I'm in some movie about drug dealers in LA everytime I open up my door to the parking lot. There are a lot of sketchy people hanging out thier front doors smoking. But we have been spending most of our time with my sister, Wendy, and her dog over at her house, otherwise known as Havoc House. Havoc is a cooperative house that my sister and her fellow anarchist started about four years ago. I first visited Havoc three years ago with my friend Meg and it was a little shocking to see my sister living in a house with 10 other people, as well as dogs and chickens. But I know that she completely enjoys Havoc and the more time I spend at Havoc I begin to see why people want to live together in such a community. It always seems like something is going on. Someone is always going dumpster diving, going to pick up horse shit for the backyard garden, or having a community dinner. Wendy bought some hedge clippers Friday so dad and I decided to complete some service hours and almost cut down all the weeds, I mean trees, in the Havoc yard. I like to imagine my dad living in Havoc house with 10 anarchists. It kind of reminds me of that SNL skit where Bob Dole lives in the Real World house. Cracks me up just thinking about it.

Overall Dad and I feel pretty good about leaving for Mexico manana. Coming into Tucson I think we were both a little freaked out about being at our last stop before Mexico. I'm not really sure why we were skidish about going to Mexico. I think we just read too many border horror stories. But now we feel great and are ready to get the hell out of Tucson. The drive across America has been great. It's crazy to think I've driven all the way from Boston to Tuscon in last three weeks. It feels like a month has gone by since leaving Omaha. I expect it to feel this way the entire trip. Going from cold to hot, from cornfields to mountains to desert and back can mess with your sense of time.

The photos are from the last couple of stops.

Are You Guys Brothers?

It's 4:30 pm saturday Nov 15 in Tucson AZ. Marty and I are still speaking to each other. We have learned an enormous amount in the past week. Mostly that we need each other ot make this trip and that collaborative thinking generates the best decisions.

So the last week has been pretty exhausting. Last sunday we stopped in Taos NM for lunch. I already posted the picture of the Rio Grande Gorge. But as we were leaving Taos a couple stopped us while we climbed on the bikes. After a lot a questions about the bikes and the plan the woman asked " are you guys brothers?" Now any of you who know me will attest that my raven black hair and chiseled face left me 15 yrs ago. But I am still vain and it made me feel great. So just as I was about to say " you bet" Marty told her the truth.

After resting for 2 days at Jemez Springs we left for Eagar AZ through some great back roads to meet Laurice and Cari Margheim , old friends from Alliance Ne now living in Eagar. Marty and I had survived what we thought were cold days, but as the sun set it the AZ mountains the temps dropped and my feet started to freeze for the first time. Arizona is not warm at 7200 ft.

Laurice led the way from Quimota NM to Eagar and we pulled in under a beautiful full moon over the forested mountains framing Eagar. It only took 2 hours to regain feeling in my toes, so I am improving.

Eagar and Springerville AZ are contiguous and indistinguishable small towns. I needed something at the pharmacy so Laurice Marty and I rode down to the only combination Rexall Drug and gun store I have ever encountered in Springerville. Toothpaste is only a few steps away from ammo. Truly a full service store.

Wednesday we were going to try to make Tucson, but got a late start and a top heavy bike (mine) stopped us in Globe AZ. The ride was through the high passes and down to the canyon of the Salt River. It would be great if the bikes were not fully loaded. But the curves were a tad tight and an all out race up and down the canyon was not prudent. We pulled into Tucson on Thursday and have been warm ever since.

For the past couple days were have been doing upkeep on the bikes, getting our inter bike radio system to work, and generally enjoying being with daughter Wendy and dog Andrew. Andrew went nuts when he heard the bikes approaching. The dog has a prodigous memory for engine sound.

So now I am sitting in my luxury suite at Motel 6 getting the final touches to make the crossing to Mexico on Monday the 17th. It may be a while before I can post once I cross. Hope you enjoy the photos of the Jemez River canyon at sunrise, the drugun store, Laurice and Cari, and the natural arch in outback NM. More later.

Jemez Springs, New Mexico

I awoke this morning to snow and deer standing outside my door. Monday is a rest day and we could not have picked a better place. Marty and I are staying with my Uncle Jim Sampson at the Paraclete Fathers House in Jemez Springs NM.We have now covered 1200 miles, all of it during winter conditions.

Hiway 4 from Los Alamos to Jemez Springs is a winding forest shrouded raod with switchbacks and corkscrews. When the curve sign says 10 MPH it means it.

I am not as thoughtful on the blogs as Marty. I get these wonderful ideas at 3 am, then go back to sleep. But let me tell you about Alamosa CO. People asked why we chose that route when we could have made great time on the Interstate. Well when I waoke up to 19 degrees and frost on the saddle Sunday morning I thought the same things. But the ride to Alamosa and from there to Taos, then to Jemez Springs is a tour book route.

I have attached some pics. The gorge of the Rio Grande just outside Taos. The ride from Taos to Espanola NM, and some of the wide open spsces.

The Henry Zoo

As we moved through Kansas and in to Colorado yesterday the skies cleared for the most part and the land gave way to the grass lands. Dad and I found the back roads that lead us to I-70 were just happened upon my friend Chris Henry freezing to dealth about 150 miles east of Denver. Chris had driven out on his Honda sport bike and was not entirely dress for the wind that he was about to expeience on his way west back into Denver. Chris claimed that our speedometers were broken and that we were moving to slow for his liking. I think he was just cold and wanted to get to his warm house as soon as possible. I don't blaim him. The Henry house was happening as always. Unfortunately Patty, Chris's wife and my fellow Peace Corps companion, was down and out after having her tonsals out four days earlier. Luckily for me Patty took some drugs and rallied enough to have dinner with us. The Henry's 18 month old son, Gunnar, was in full effect, charming and entertaining all of us. It was good to get to spend some time in Denver with some old friends. Denver has always been one of my favorite town since I was a little kid. Being in Denver and seeing Gunnar I think sparked my dad memories of when we were much younger and my parents would take every chance to come down to the city from Alliance, NE. The mountains brings back memories from when I was a kid, the Rockies still amaze me. Driving from Denver southward to Alamosa today dad and I found ourselves rolling down a highway located in the middle of the largest valley I've been in in a long time. While dreaming about this trip for the last 18 months I had a photo on my computer desktop of a guy on a motorcycle driving though a valley with mountains all around. I was happy to finally experience the photo for myself today. But I think dad and I are a bit tired. Three days on the bike can take a lot out of you. I think we are both bit overwhelmed by the idea of spending four months on the road. Three days in and we are already kind of sick of eating out. We are both trying to make a concerted effort to eat healthy, not sure this evenings KFC fit the bill. All and all things are going good and we are working out the kinks of riding together and adjusting to our loaded bikes. Hopefully we will feel comfortable before the Mexican border but I'm not holding my breath. Thanks once again to Patty, Chris, Merril for their hospitality and to Gunnar for helping me take some great photos, coming soon. On to New Mexico.

Concordia, Kansas

Well in the tradition of ending up in random locals Concordia, Kansas is serving well. After a stressful morning of trying to get out of Omaha the rode has given way to a tough ride but great day. I think we both had some nerves this morning as we actually got on the bikes for the first time . I couldn't actually believe that we were leaving. The butterflys were in full force. I think they will be around for a while until we get settled in the rode. But the day was good and I think we found a little of what we were looking for in the people we have already met along the way. The small towns of Nebraska and Kansas have character and kindness, along with a few farmers with dirty jokes hanging out in gas stations. It's nice to know I can make a u-turn anywhere I want and there is zero chance I'm going to get a ticket. It doesn't get much better than a Motel 8 with a few flys and a hole in the wall Mexican Restaraunt for supper. It's good to be in the middle of nowhere.

Brutal, Absolutely Brutal

It is 7:30 pm in Concordia, Kansas and I will never be warm again. Marty and I left Omaha about 10 am and hit the front side of winter 20 minutes later. We rode south from Omaha in 30 to 40 mph side winds from the west. When we got to Kansas we turned west and had headwinds, and temps in the low 40's. So 250 miles later we pulled into Concordia and started to defrost.

I love wind riding. Always have. This is just so much fun. I love being tossed around on the bike and recovering. I love riding leaned over and thinking my way through the curves with changing winds and gusts. So Patagonia here I come.

Packing was stressful. But now that I am on the bike a feeling of serenity has returned. Marty and I are going to have the time of our lives.

Have you ever had a dream?

Have you ever had a dream? To just pick up and go, to see the world...

- Alby Mangels

When I was in college by friend Patrick Fritz and I would watch "Adventure Bound with Alby Mangels" almost every day. Alby, an Australian mason turned film maker, was on permanent walkabout, traveling to the corners of the world experiencing things that we could only dream about. As I sit here, on the night before dad and I leave for our journey to the tip of South America on motorcycles I think of Alby and all the times I have dreamt about taking such a journey. Since I was a small child I dreamed of traveling the world to see what was out there. When I was very young, living in Alliance, Nebraska, a place far from anything, I would watch MTV (When there were still videos) and see videos from all over the world. It is quite incredible for me now to look back over the last 20 years since leaving Alliance and see where I have been able to go and the experiences I have been able to have. I look at the journey dad and I are about to take and can’t help but see what has shaped our vision. It is a dream of reconnecting with lives past and hopefully connecting with future experiences. For my dad I see a connection to when he was 19 and living in Venezuela driving a truck and hanging out at dusky rodeos in the middle of nowhere. For me it is the connection to my time living in Chile and the Dominican Republic. But for both of us it this trip is not really about reliving past lives, but reconnecting with cultures and countries that seems to some how be part of our nature. The truth is that neither of us are very practical about life. I think we are both deep down very much dreamers who just don’t want to see life pass without living out at least a few of those dreams. It’s been 18 months since we sat around one Saturday morning in May 2007 drinking coffee and schemed this thing up. But in reality it’s been a lot longer in dreaming about taking a trip like this. It’s been a long time since I have sat up at night, unable to sleep because of the excitement for the next day. If this trip is anything like the rest of my experiences it will be ten times better then anything I have imagined over the past 18 months. Now its time to sleep because tomorrow we have to pick up and go, to see the world..

Boston to Omaha, Thanks All

I just wanted to say thanks to all the folks who put me up on my way back to Omaha from Boston. It was great to reconnect with Dave, Chris, Pat, Josh, Rick, Christine, Dave and Erica. It was a great trip with the exception of the New Jersey Snow Storm. When I'm traveling eastbound and get to Ohio I feel like I am so far east, but when I'm traveling westbound when I get to Ohio I feel so far west. I was riding through Ohio and Indiana on Friday and was thinking "man, there is nothing out here", then I rode through Iowa on Saturday and there was really nothing out there. Jacque Caglia asked me last week what I was most looking forward to on this trip. I told her that I was most looking forward to being in the middle of nowhere and finding those places that I never would have dreamed being in in a million years. But I'm glad that the trip from Boston to Omaha gave me the chance to reconnect with you guys. It's nice to see that after 1, 5, and 7 years friendships can pick up right where they left off.